Streets that never needed a shop sign
Jermyn Street is still the shirt street, a straight run of bow windows behind which men are measured for collars in a manner that has not changed much in generations. St James's Street climbs from the palace gatehouse up to Piccadilly, and on the way it passes a hat shop that has been fitting heads since long before anyone thought to photograph the process, and a wine merchant whose floor slopes so alarmingly that first time visitors stop in the doorway.
Beside the wine merchant, a passage leads into Pickering Place, a courtyard about the size of a large drawing room, gas lit and often claimed as the smallest public square in the country. King Street runs west towards the auction house where half the world's paintings pass through on their way somewhere else, and the whole grid empties out at the bottom into the Mall and the parks.
The clubs are the reason the street stays quiet. They sit behind plain doors with a bell and a porter, they do not want your custom, and their members walk between them in the evening with the air of people crossing a very large sitting room. You do not need to be one of them to enjoy the effect.








