An arch that has been moved once already
The arch itself is a piece of Nash, cut in white marble to stand at the front of Buckingham Palace, then shifted here when it proved to be in the way. It now sits marooned on its own island of paving at the junction, too big for the traffic circling it and rather magnificent because of it. Cross to the park side and you are at the north east corner of Hyde Park, where the speakers still gather on a Sunday and argue with anyone who will stop.
Behind the junction the streets calm down almost immediately. Great Cumberland Place curves away in a crescent of Georgian brick, Portman Square keeps a private garden in the middle and two of the better hotels on its edge, and Seymour Place and the little lanes off it hold the neighbourhood restaurants that the shopping crowd never finds. Ten minutes east, the department store windows begin.








