A lake, a fountain and a sand track
The Serpentine cuts the park in half, with the bridge across the middle and a bar and kitchen on the eastern shore where the swans are entirely unafraid of your chips. On the southern bank the memorial fountain to the Princess of Wales runs as a shallow oval of moving water that children paddle in all summer and nobody photographs well.
Rotten Row runs along the south side, a wide sand track laid for riders that still carries horses most mornings and is the single best place in central London to walk at seven in the evening. At the north west corner the Italian Gardens hold their fountains and urns above the Long Water, and two galleries sit on either side of the bridge, one of them in an old gunpowder store with a curving extension bolted on.
The eastern lawns change with the calendar: deck chairs and a bandstand in summer, a full fairground with wooden huts and ice for a few weeks in winter. The park closes at midnight and opens at five, which is worth knowing if your evening plan involves a shortcut.








